26 October 2024–Today we drove to Rasiglia, Spoleto, and the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi in Assisi. Dad was feeling a little bit better this morning, so he ate some peach halves, yogurt, and a few bites of toast this morning for breakfast. Energy level was still not good. His bowels are still not tolerating foods, resulting in bouts of diarrhea and belching/hiccuping. Doctor Moline replied to Dad’s message to her with basically the same advice as what we’ve been getting from local pharmacists. Let us hope that he feels better very, very soon.Meanwhile, though, Dad drove me around all day, even though he did not walk around anywhere. Walking in this part of Italy is not a straight flat walk. Rather, it involves some climbing up a mountainside, coming back down, and so on. We stopped first at Rasiglia, province of Perugia, in Umbria. Rasiglia is a charming little town that has been transformed into a “museum in plain air.” It is dedicated to the art of the Tessitrice, the weaver, usually a woman. This involved the whole process of collecting fur from sheep, turning it into yarn, coloring the yarn, and producing beautiful blankets, and so on with this yarn. The process involved a mill, some textile weaving equipment, and running water, in this context, the clear water from streams. This was interesting to me because my mom was a seamstress. I figured that although seamstress and weaver are not the same jobs, I saw some possible similarities between the lives of these tessitrici and my mother’s as a seamstress. Interestingly, here is where I met my first coffee with ricotta. Evidently, this is routine around this region, and has been for a very, very long time. If I put sugar in the coffee, the ricotta broke apart into small pieces that made it look as if milk was curdled. The drink was good, actually. Next, we traveled to Spoleto. This is known for some famous world and other festivals held in the piazza by the Duomo. This is a fortified medieval town perched high up on an Apennine hill/mountain. The nice and different thing about this town, though, is that, perhaps because of the famous festivals held here, one could choose to ride an elevator to the top or take a series of escalators (or walk, if one desires). I chose the series of escalators—until—after the third of the series, the upgoing escalator was still. I grudgingly climbed up on foot only to learn later on upon wishing to descend that all one has to do is stand close to the escalator and it would start. At the level of the Piazza and the Duomo, there is an interesting tall green statue of an olive. It makes sense because of all of the olive trees nearby. This statue represents an aspiration for the “germination of peace.” Naturally, there is a large piazza with not much in it, just a couple of restaurants. There is Monetto’s house, the guy who founded a major annual festival that prominent actors and actresses from around the world attend. Interestingly, there is a large white Buddha with butterflies state next to Monetto’s house. And…there is the Duomo dedicated to the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, a beautiful 12th century cathedral with a beautiful facade as well as interior. Finally, we travelled to Assisi, also in the province of Perugia, region of Umbria. This is a huge and popular complex, sort of a medieval little city perched on Mount Subasio (I believe) in the Apennines. (Interestingly, our B&B looks out onto Mount Subasio, but not on St. Francis of Assisi’s Basilica). There are shops, little restaurants, gelato shops, souvenir shops…along the sloping city leading to the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi at the top. My goal was to see thee Tomb of St. Francis of Assisi (He was born in Assisi, and I was told that he preached on Mount Subasio). Also, I wished to participate in Sunday vigil Mass at the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. The Tomb is in the Inferior Church of the Basilica. It is a lovely little Church, very solemn and demanding of respect in both the dress and behavior of global visitors. St. Francis’ tomb is in a plain concrete crypt encased in glass above the altar. One could not touch it or even come close to it. Additionally, photography in the Basilica, all of it, was forbidden. Too bad, though, because when the lights were turned on in the Inferior Basilica Church to celebrate Mass, the decoration was among the prettiest I’ve seen. The ceiling is mostly green. The dome by the altar had what looked like three-D frescoes all inside. The lit candles by the altar shone throughout the service and were also green. Just such a beautiful church that pictures I’ve seen just stop short of doing it justice! The Mass, although in Italian only at that time, was full. There was even a segment at the very end where the Priest acknowledged, blessed, and prayed with/for several “pilgrims” who had “walked”…. (But I do not know from where…). Just before the Mass began, drummers and female dancers in white/Indian (as in Navajo, Cherokee, and so on), and several people holding a sign about Nuestra Madonna Reina De Los Angeles, danced and processed in the piazza just outside of the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi. It was dark outside when Mass ended, creating a breathtaking view of the illuminated St. Francis of Assisi complex. Upon our return to our B&B, Dad did not have dinner with the hosts and guests. Instead, he opted to shower and relax. The hosts made a meat broth for Dad, just for him, which I delivered to our room for him to drink. I feasted with the group on homemade focaccia (the dough had been rising for nearly three full days). It was dressed simply with a little olive oil and a little bit of salt. It was served with prosciutto, cheese, some sort of liver pate (which I did not touch), and a delicious homemade blackberry jam. Homemade wine was the drink of choice. Following the focaccia, the hosts made other focaccias into pizzas of various toppings on demand. Dessert was another focaccia, this time minus the olive oil and the salt, but rather, spread with Nutella. Grappa was available to anyone who wanted it (I did not). I ended my dinner with Cafe American (mostly hot milk with a splash of coffee). A final touch from the hosts tonight: Perugia Bacio (chocolate “kiss” candy, filled with nocciolo and a paper message inside) for all guests present.
Our Travels 